Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Assignment 4.1: Historical Draped/Tailored Garments: September 30, 2009: Burnstein: Historical Tailored Garments: Christian Dior's "New Look"


Image: Christian Dior's "New Look", 1947

Christian Dior's career was launched in 1947 with his very first collection, in which he introduced the “New Look“. Featuring rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and very full skirt, the New Look celebrated ultra-femininity and opulence. After years of military and civilian uniforms, sartorial restrictions and shortages, Dior offered not merely a new look but a new outlook. (1)

(1) http://images.google.com

Historical Tailored Garments: Gauntlets

Image: Plated gauntlets (mailed gloves) date back as far as the early 10th or 12th Centuries (1)

Gloves, an example of a tailored garment, are usually worn to keep ones hands warm, where as Gauntlets were developed to protect the hands in fighting. Throwing down the gauntlet as a way of challenging someone was a part of English law for 800 years. Later the glove was used by men to challenge someone to a duel. Single long gloves were made for men and actually fit over their sleeves in order to protect their sword arm. But wearing gloves as a fashion began during the 12th century. In Queen Elizabeth I court, no well dressed woman was without gloves. In the 16th and 17th century, gloves were heavily ornamented with fringe, jewels, lace and embroideries and were made of leather, silk, linen or lace. Glove making became a refined art and London became the hub of glove makers. (2)

(1) http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27072/session_06.html

(2) http://images.google.com

Historical Tailored Garments: Trousers

Image: Germanic trousers of the 4th century found in the Thorsberg moor, Germany

Trousers are an item of clothing tailored to be worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs separately Nomadic Eurasian horsemen such as the Iranian Scythians, became early adopters of trousers. In ancient China only soldiers wore trousers. Men's clothes in Hungary in the 15th century consisted of a shirt and trousers as underwear. Trousers appeared in Western European culture at several points in history, but gained their current predominance only in the 16th century. In England in the twelfth century, the rustic often wore long garments to the ankle, rather like trousers. Trouserlike garments, which became rare again in the thirteenth century, vanished during the fourteenth century and scarcely reappeared for six hundred years. (1)

(1) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trousers

Historical Draped Garments: Madeleine Vionnet

Image: A model wearing a gown by designer Madeleine Vionnet, 1935

Madeleine Vionnet was considered a fashion revolutionary for her use of drapery. She was inspired by the draperies on Greek statues and the dances of Isadora Duncan, and developed a technique of draping and cutting which caused her to be named “The Queen of the Bias Cut” – a technique which continues to inform the work of many leading designers today, most notably John Galliano.

Madame Vionnet was also responsible for introducing dresses made from a single length of cloth, without fastenings or buttons; hooded tunics; halter-necks and the handkerchief hem (1).


(1) http://images.google.com

Historical Draped Garment: Middle Age's & Veils

Title: Elizabeth of York Portrait
1465 - 1503

Elizabeth was the eldest daughter of Edward IV during the Middle Ages and eventually married Henry Tudor (1). Drapery was common during this time and was most notably utilized in the fashion of women's veils as symbols of marital status (2).


Historical Draped Garment: Roman Toga

The garment illustrated in this image is a toga, a distinctive garment of Ancient Rome (about 753 BC - 44 BC (1)). Toga's were worn by draping and wrapping a cloth of perhaps twenty feet in length around the body and generally worn over a tunic. Toga's were typically made of wool and the tunic beneath often made of linen (2).

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Assignment 3.1: Six Functions of Dress

Dress: White Wedding Gown with Strapless ruched boddice and full tulle skirt. 2009.
Designer: Betsey Johnson [1]

This garment represents the six prominent social functions of dress:
Environmental Protection: Because western style wedding gowns vary dramatically in style, length and textiles, there is no real value to its protection against the elements, however it does typically cover enough of ones body to either keep them warm or cool depending on the time of year the wedding is held.
Decoration: The details of the dress, makeup, hairstyle and accessories worn by the bride all make up the decorations associated with the entire look and vary depending on the brides style and taste preferences.
Gender Differentiation: Traditionally, the female wears a white gown where as her male counterpart will wear a pant suite.
Group Membership: Wearing a white wedding gown on ones wedding day is traditional in western culture, making one part of modern western culture.
Ceremonial: Weddings are a special occasion and mark a monumental moment in ones life, lending to the ceremonial importance of ones garment.
Sexual Enhancement: Although wedding dresses in western culture are traditionally floor length and white, modern times have brought about numerous changes in wedding gown design and allow for every bride to accentuate her most appealing features. Most women will choose gowns to enhance their figure and showcase their favorite feature, be it their back, shoulders, arms or legs.

[1] White Wedding Gowns by Betsey Johnson. eDressme, New York. 1999. Sept. 23, 2009. http://www.edressme.com/ea26368.html

Six Functions of Dress


Designer & Manufacturer: Regalis Designs: Figura Online; 2009
Dress & Dupatta: Fully embroidered pure jamawar lehnga choli in sharara style with brocade and silk patchwork along pure chiffon. Georgette dupatta with antique zardozi, sequins, resham and stone work finished with brocade and silk frill. [1]

This image depicts an Indian Muslim Bride adorned in the traditional dress, makeup, hair and accessories of her religion and culture. A gharara is a traditional garment, worn primarily by Muslim women in the Indian Subcontinent. It consists of a kurti (a short, mid-thigh length tunic), a dupatta (veil), and most importantly, a pair of wide-legged pants, ruched at the knee so they flare out dramatically. The knee area, called the goat in Urdu, is often elaborately embroidered in zari and zardozi work. [1]

This garment represents each of the six prominent social functions of dress:
Environmental Protection: The Sari and full length bridal gowns might have originally been developed as protection against
the harmful rays of the sun and heat: loose and flowing garments are practical in hot climates as they keep the wearer "cooler and layered garments allow wind to enter and circulate, creating a natural ventilation system. Protecting the head and neck from loss of moisture prevents heat stroke." [2]
Decoration: As decoration acts as the main function of dress that most people can relate to, Indian brides are highly decorated by way of their hair, jewelry, make-up and even their skin (henna tattoos): Even though the bride's hair may be covered, the dupatta is sheer enough to allow others to see her hairstyle and decorations. The decorations in her hair may include a shringar patti, which is worn along the hairline and has a small disk in the front, or a maang tikka, which is worn along a center part and hangs on the forehead." [3]
Gender Differentiation: Like in most western culture, men do not wear dresses. "The sari is considered a feminine garment in India. Men do not wear the sari. If they did, it would be considered cross-dressing." [4]
Group Membership: Wearing Sari's and highly ornate bridal gowns such as the Gharara, allows women to identify with others in their religion and culture as these are garments which are region specific.
Ceremonial: The Gharara and Dupatta are only worn for the special occasion of weddings.
Sexual Enhancement: Although the Sari and Gharara have become customary for Indian women to wear, as they are a sign of modesty, "in the West, the sari is seen as an exotic garment. A pretty woman in a sari may elicit more admiring glances than she would receive in Western clothing." [4] These garments are especially sexually appealing as men do not wear them, and the allure of what's hiding underneath the layered garments peaks curiosity...

[1] "Figura Online." Regalis Designs. 2009. Sept. 23, 2009. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://figurafashion.com/images/sharara11.jpg&imgrefurl=http://figurafashion.com/index.php%3Fmain_page%3Dindex%26cPath%3D11&usg=__dP13I0QeHBv-2Ge9527nC3MjDRQ=&h=700&w=500&sz=111&hl=en&start=8&sig2=dSOL7FNcsCJUqsSwpZe9RQ&um=1&tbnid=ojwVEKVB4sPxrM:&tbnh=140&tbnw=100&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dtraditional%2Bmuslim%2Bbride%2Battire%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG%26um%3D1&ei=NK26SvqbD43WsgOimqT3CA
[2] Dunn, Jimmy. "What to Wear." InterCity Oz, Inc. 1996-2003. Sept. 23, 2009. http://www.touregypt.net/wear.htm
[3] Walker, Shavon. "Indian Muslim Bridal Hairstyles & Makeup." eHow, Inc. 1999-2009. Sept. 23, 2009. http://www.ehow.com/about_5368477_indian-bridal-hairstyles-amp-makeup.html
[4] Philipose, Cherian. "Why Wear a Sari When you can Wear a Tanktop." The Epoch Times. 2000-2009. Sept. 23, 2009. http://www.theepochtimes.com/n2/content/view/10107/

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Assignment 2.2: New York Fashion Week: Donna Karan: History of 20th Century Fashion Arts, OL1 GS613, Sept. 17, 2009, Burnstine



Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week showcased many talented designers this fall. I was inspired by the edgy looks by BCBGMaxazria, the striking colors and intricate prints used by AAU fashion student Sawanya Jomthepmala, and in particular, I was stirred by Donna Karan's Spring 2010 Collection.
Donna Karan's collection featured dresses and suits tailored to enhance any female figure. Her use of drapery transformed each garment into a sheath of femininity, while her use of textiles, such as linen, twill and stretch matte jersey gave the line a soft easy-to-wear sensuality complimented by a color palette of peach, white and grey. The collection was spiced up with a few pieces in a bold red, adding a needed contrast to the delicate dresses and sheaths which were the focus.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Materials, Organic Fabrics 2009 -->


Designer: Salts Eco Fashion
Designed and Produced in Canada
Material: Organic Cotton
2009

Buying organic clothing made from materials such as organically grown cotton, bamboo, and hemp can help reduce pesticide run-off from growing these fiber producing plants as well as reduce the number of chemicals used in creating synthetic fabrics.

With the ever increasing threat of Global Warming, our planet depends upon our finding environmentally friendly resources for our every day essentials, clothing materials included.
Dress: 1960’s mini dress with velvet upper
Designer: Unknown
100% Polyester
Size: 2
"The polymer that became polyester has roots in the 1929 writings of Dr. Wallace Carothers. In 1950, a pilot plant at the Seaford, Delaware, facility produced Dacron [polyester] fiber with modified nylon technology.

Polyesters are made from chemical substances found mainly in petroluem and are manufactured in fibers, films, and plastics" (Bellis).

"[Polyester] was advertised as a miracle fiber that could be worn for 68 days straight without ironing and still look presentable.

Polyester experienced a constant growth until the 1970s when sales drastically declined due to a negative public image that emerged in the late 60s.

Today, polyester is still widely regarded as a "cheap, uncomfortable" fiber, but even now this image is slowly beginning to change with the emergence of polyester luxury fibers such as polyester microfiber" (Boekhoff).


Bellis, Mary. "The History of Polyester."
About.com: Inventors. Sept. 2009. http://inventors.about.com/library/inventors/blpolyester.htm.

Boekhoff, Kristin. "History." Peter Schwartz's TXA 337: Structural Fabric Design. April 1996. Cornell University. Sept. 2009. http://schwartz.eng.auburn.edu/polyester/history.html.

Materials, Nylon Stockings 1940's

These Antique Rose Nylon stockings are an example of what was introduced in the 1940's after the inventor Dr. Wallace Hume Carothers, at DuPont, created Nylon.
"
When Du Pont decided to develop nylon into a commercial fiber, the company specifically intended to use it to compete with silk in the women’s hosiery market.
"'Nylons,' as they were soon called, eventually replaced silk stockings."

"Dr. Carothers’ work in polymerization set in motion the modern materials revolution that continues to this day in the development of products that replicate nature yet add specific characteristics such as fire resistance, insulation, and light weight plus strength."

Ament, Phil. "Nylon Stockings." The Great Idea Finder. Troy MI: ©1997-2007. March 2005. Sept. 2009. http://www.ideafinder.com/history/inventions/nylon.htm.

Materials, Cotton in India, 18th Century

Cotton was first grown in Eurasia for clothing, sheets, and towels by the Harappan people in India in about 2500 B.C.
The above image is of a Boy's Robe (Jama), made out of cotton and embroidered with silk and gold-wrapped thread from Mughal in the 18th Century.

Carr, Karen. "History of Cotton." KidiPede. 1998. Portland State University. Sept. 2009. http://www.historyforkids.org/learn/clothing/cotton.htm.

Materials, Linen the Middle Ages 5th-16th century


This image depicts a typical linen undergarment that was worn by women throughout the "Anglo-Saxon period of 450-1100."

"Women wore a fairly slender undergarment, or shift, with long, narrow sleeves."

Randolph, Octavia. "Clothing."
About.com. 1996. Octavia Randolph. Sept. 2009. http://historymedren.about.com/gi/o.htm?zi=1/XJ/Ya&zTi=1&sdn=historymedren&cdn=education&tm=2&f=10&tt=14&bt=0&bts=1&zu=http%3A//www.octavia.net/9thclife/Clothing.htm.

Materials, Silk in 3000 BC and the 19th Century


The image to the right is of a Wedding Tunic & Vest from the late 19th Century made of Chinese Silk & Gold Metallic Thread.

"Chinese legend gives the title Goddess of Silk to Lady Hsi-Ling-Shih, wife of the mythical Yellow Emperor, who was said to have ruled China in about 3000 BC. She is credited with the introduction of silkworm rearing and the invention of the loom."
During this time, women generally wore long tunics down to the ground while men wore shorter ones to their knees. In early China, poor people made their clothes of hemp or ramie while rich people wore the prized material of silk.

"History of Silk." Silk Road Foundation. 2000. Sept. 2009 . http://www.silk-road.com/artl/silkhistory.shtml

Materials, Wool 7th century B.C.

Roman garments were usually made of wool, and much of Roman clothing was designed to reveal the social status of its wearer. "In typical Roman fashion, the more distinguished the wearer, the more his dress was distinctively marked, while the dress of the lowest classes was often not marked at all.
In the above diagram, for example, we can deduce that the first man on the left is a Roman citizen (because he wears a toga) but is not an equestrian or senator (because he has no stripes on his tunic). Colored shoes and the broad stripes on [the third mans] tunic identif[ies him] as a senator. The laurel wreath on the head of the next man and his special robes indicate that he is an emperor, while the uniform and cloak of the following man identify him as a general.

McManus, Barbara F. "Roman Clothing." The College of New Rochelle. Aug. 2003. Sept. 2009. http://www.vroma.org/~bmcmanus/clothing.html

Materials, Fur 200,000 B.C.E. - 30,000 B.C.E.


This image depicts a Neanderthal man wrapped in fur hides. Neanderthals, who survived from about 200,000 B.C.E. to 30,000 B.C.E., were the first known humans to make clothing. As hunters, furs and hides were the first materials used as clothing, which served a greater purpose of keeping the Neanderthals warm and dry.

"Prehistoric Clothing." Fashion Encyclopedia: The Ancient World-Prehistoric. 2008. Advameg Inc. Sept. 16, 2009. http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/The-Ancient-World-Prehistoric/Prehistoric-Clothing.html

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Inspirational Fashion

For Lady Gaga, the clothes she wears to perform go hand-in-hand with the songs she sings, as she wants the imagery to be as powerful as her voice. Lady Gaga’s unconventional sense of style inspires and reminds me to think outside of the box and to unabashedly explore and appreciate fashion.


Just as Lady Gaga’s fashion sense is unique and inspirational, this Fashion Source Book aims to encourage and motivate ideas. This blog will act as a platform to stimulate thought by way of verbal and visual information. Images and posts will be added based on various topics and points of view in an effort to produce a comprehensive depiction of fashion and history throughout the 20th Century.