Assignment 10.1 - 11.1: Historical and Artistic Styles

In art, the formula to create a surreal composition was to place unrelated objects, or symbols, in the same visual context and let the subconscious mind of the viewer develop a meaning. In fashion, Surrealism was about creating bizarre pairings of materials and objects in a garment or outfit, much like Manish Arora did with this circus themed garment pictured above.

The garment above is by Paul Poiret, who created the most representative designs of the Art Nouveau era. By "synthesizing Greek, Egyptian, Japanese and Islamic art, Poiret created one-of-a-kind outfits." [1] The style of this time "was characterized by flowing lines and favored circles and curves, as opposed to the straight, clean lines representative of modern life. Fashions from the early 20th century took inspiration from Japanese prints, Middle Eastern motifs, and Celtic art, just like other decorative arts of the era did. Fashion designers translated these curvilinear Art Nouveau compositions into flowing draperies and often used textiles with exotic motifs and color combinations." [1]
During the Neoclassical period, after the French Revolution in 1789, Greek-Roman influences re-appeared in art - and fashion. High waistlines (empire waist) became fashionable on dresses made out of layers of sheer fabric arranged in draperies, imitating ancient Greek and Roman costumes. The above image from Derek Lam's Spring 2006 RTW collection perfectly depicts these Neoclassical history art influences.
Extravagant silhouettes, contrasting colors and patterns, and voluminous accessories were adopted during the Baroque period's costumes. There were variations in style throughout the 17th century, however each used "at least one overgrown element to destabilize the natural figure: high waistlines, huge falling collars and cuffs, or skirt-wide breeches." [1]
The high waistline, huge falling collar, contrasting black and white colors and overall voluminous silhouette in the above Christian Dior garment from the Spring 2009 Couture collection exemplifies these Baroque historical art elements.

This garment was part of Christian Dior's Fall 2006 Couture collection, and showcases Byzantine inspired historical art styles. Byzantine costumes focused on ornamentation as the most important component, as the pixilated quality of mosaics that decorated churches and palaces were the most striking characteristic of Byzantine art. Jewels were attached to everything: shoes, belts, hats - becoming an integral part of the garment, just as the elaborately decorated dress and headpiece above illustrate.

This garment, by Jean Paul Gaultier from his Fall 2009 Couture collection, is perhaps influenced by the Gothic historical art style. Architecture was the most representative form of art during the Gothic era and silhouettes of this time mimicked the spires and arches of towers by the adoption of tall conical hats, represented in the draped veil worn above. The figure-hugging dress and draped veil are also representative of the translation of hard stone and fragile glass of cathedrals which were contrasted by tight-fitting and draped sections of garments.
Similarly, velvety textiles in dark tones translated the opacity of the tinted glass of stained-glass windows, like the velvet dress seen above.

[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27078/session_04.html
[2] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/