Final Project: Street Trend Analysis

Fashion has historically been about creating hierarchical relationships, and street trends, in particular, are a direct result of these innate relationships. In addition to stratifying classes or defining relationships, “street trends” are complex versions of informal activism “by proposing alternate options or choices of dress that become concrete collective demonstrations.” [1] So while traditionally, fashion has trickled down from the upper classes to be accepted among the masses, street trends begin with marginalized social groups who are often opposed to mainstream fashion and whose styles are eventually (and ironically) accepted by the very masses they opposed.

[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27080/session_05.html

The following two posts discuss emerging street trends and the following 8 posts depict popular street trends from the last century:

Part 3: New Street Trends: Effortlessly Chic

One can be dressed fashionably by wearing simple, classic pieces in muted or subtle colors. But to make a fashion statement and be fashionable at the same time involves a wow factor paired smartly with other elegant pieces. Effortlessly Chic is a trend that revolves around being bold in only one item of your ensemble. The first two images above portray this trend in that the first woman is dressed entirely in black, but her jacket lends interest by way of its avantgarde silhouette and fur trim. A stand out, yet chic and subtle look. The second woman is seen wearing an otherwise blase and relaxed outfit made up of leggings, skirt, and sweater. But by throwing on that fur vest, this woman managed to make her nonchalant look eye-catching.

This street trend can be seen on the runways as well: Marc Jacobs accomplishes this effortlessly chic look in the third image by adding ruffles to the trousers of an otherwise average pinstriped suit in his Spring 2010 RTW collection. And lastly, Lanvin proves how a few well placed ruffles on his garment can transform an average strapless cocktail dress into a statement making garment in his Spring 2010 RTW collection.

Street images sourced from: http://fashion.elle.com/blog/2009/12/street-chic-new-york-9.html
Runway images sourced from: http://www.style.com/fashionshows

Part 3: New Street Trends: Layers

The rules of choosing ones accessories wisely are out the window. As the economy continues to struggle, and our wallets feel that hurt, rather than wear the bare minimum (and physically show how one might be cash poor) individuals are wearing it all!

The popular street trend during these cooler winter months is that of layering: Chunky knits under cozy jackets, topped with wrapped scarves and warm hats, paired with skinny pants, leggings, stockings or tights, exposed socks and multiple shirts is just the tip of the clothing iceberg.

The first two images above depict this layered street trend, well, on the streets.
The third image is from 3.1 Phillip Lim's Fall 2009 RTW collection. The last two images display this layering trend as seen on the Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 RTW runway.

Images courtesy of: http://www.elle.com/Fashion/Street-Chic/Street-Chic-Layers/%28imageIndex%29/1/%28play%29/false
and http://www.style.com/fashionshows

Part 1&2: Zoot Suit

Zoot Suit:
Zoot Suits emerged during the 1920’s, 30’s and into the 40’s and gained mainstream status before being abolished due to textile restrictions associated with WWII. A Zoot suit is characterized by a “high-waisted, wide-legged, tight-cuffed, pegged trouser, and a long coat with wide lapels and wide padded shoulders. This style of clothing was popularized by African Americans, Mexican Americans, Puerto Ricans, Italian Americans, and Filipino Americans.” [2]

The first image is circa 1943 of a man wearing an original Zoot Suit.
The second image is a "Zoot Suit" Look by Dior Homme, Fall 2008 with an obvious influence on the tight-cuffed, wide-legged pants.
The third image is John Galliano's take on a Zoot Suit in 2009 also featuring tight-cuffed, wide-legged trousers and a long coat with wide lapels.
[2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoot_suit

Part 1&2: Beatniks

Beatniks:
“The beatniks started in the 1940s in San Francisco among existentialist intellectuals and artists. It represented a philosophy of anti-materialism and was a direct inspiration for the hippies’ movement.” [1] “According to the media, you could tell a beatnik because beatniks wore berets and dark glasses and goatees and snapped their fingers a lot.” [2]

First image above is undated and shows a group of Beatniks.
Second image: Marc by Marc Jacob's Fall 2008 RTW collection was infused with somber colors, berets, sunglasses and otherwise Beatnik influenced looks.
Third image: DSquared2's Fall 2009 RTW collection provided this beatnik inspired look featuring a beret style hat, sunglasses and relaxed look.
[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27080/session_05.html
[2] http://ponderingpig.wordpress.com/2009/10/17/the-terrible-truth-about-beatniks/

Part 1&2: Teddy Boys

Teddy Boys:
“Teddy Boys were in England first in the 1950s and then the US. They were introduced by young middle- and lower-class youth as a rejection of the ultra-functionality of 50s fashion. Instead of the New Look, they favored Edwardian elegance. “ [1] “Teddy Boy clothing was long draped jackets, usually in dark shades, sometimes with velvet trim collar and pocket flaps; high-waist "drainpipe" trousers, often showing brightly colored socks. Favored footwear was chunky brogues, large crepe-soled shoes, often suede. Plus a high-necked loose collars on a white shirt; a narrow Slim Jim tie, and a brocade waistcoat.” [2]

The first image above is a young man posed to show off his Edwardian-style suit in Tottenham, London, 29th May 1954. [3]
The second and third images are from Comme Des Garcons Fall 2005 collection that featured long draped jackets with velvet trimmed collars, black nylon cropped trousers and narrow ties.

[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27080/session_05.html
[2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teddy_Boy
[3] http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://cache3.asset-cache.net/xc/71440011.jpg%3Fv%3D1%26c%3DIWSAsset%26k%3D2%26d%3DB368F141FF5C4DC233EE69EF56275536&imgrefurl=http://www.gettyimages.com/detail/71440011/Hulton-Archive&usg=__QZ_CP9Opj1zgAqPH2MqOltrZrkM=&h=594&w=399&sz=36&hl=en&start=16&sig2=luTZW2flbJ-xri8nDDZ4bA&um=1&tbnid=fbeBSWN3AgqckM:&tbnh=135&tbnw=91&prev=/images%3Fq%3Doriginal%2Bteddy%2Bboy%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1&ei=Rr8tS-jRIaiWtgOew4nOAw

Part 1&2: Mods

Mods:
“The mods started in England in the 1960s among the street savvy youth interested in rock-and-roll music. To differentiate themselves from the conservative adult culture, they favored vintage and colorful outfits, accessorized with long hair.“ [1] “Color played a big role in defining the look. The muted and pastel palette of Fifties fashions gave way to bright, bold color often splayed in geometric patterns. Art, usually Pop Art, infiltrated fashion as works of art translated from canvas into fabric.” [2]

The first image is of Twiggy, a supermodel of the 60's who is seen here wearing a brightly colored dress. circa 1967
The second image is an Alice + Olivia Tunic dress playing with bright colors, a bold geometric print and shorter hemline.
The third image is a Eley Kishimoto fall 2009 Mod inspired dress, portraying bold an geometric patterns.
[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27080/session_05.html
[2] http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/mod-fashion.htm

Part 1&2: Hippies

Hippies:
“In the 1960s, hippies appeared as an anti-war, anti-establishment movement in the US. Hippies favored flowing ethnic clothes, very long hair, and jeans. It is still a very influential style of life beyond fashion.” [1]
The first image above of hippies is circa 1970.
The second image is from Diane von Furstenberg's Spring 2009 Collection featuring an ethnic, flowing print and equally wind blown long hair.
The third image is from Roberto Cavalli's Spring 2008 Collection and features the iconic hippie inspired bell bottom jeans and long hair.
[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27080/session_05.html

Part 1&2: Disco

Disco:
“During the 1970s in the US, disco consisted of futuristic and synthetic colorful materials that translated into the multiform character of disco dancing.” [1]

The first image above is a vintage men's 70s Butterfly collar disco shirt, exemplifying the use of futuristic and synthetic colorful materials at the time.

Gwen Stafani's L.A.M.B. Spring 2008 collection embraced the Disco theme by way of the futuristic prints as seen in the second image furthest to the left. Balmain's Fall 2009 look, the third image down, also showcases Disco looks by way of the synthetic and disco ball-esque material of the garment.

[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27080/session_05.html

Part 1&2: Punk

Punk:
“Punk was a representation of the alienation of life in large urban centers. Punk emerged in the late 70s in both Europe and the US. The look was achieved by pairing combat boots with tight jeans, oversized t-shirts, and outrageous hairstyles.” [1]

The first image above depicts the band the Sex Pistols during their 1970's fame as they were the epitome of the Punk rock, and fashion, movement. The second image, Rue du Mail Fall 2009, reveals fashion currently on the runway where edgy shirts are paired with tight leather pants. The third image shows the continued use of combat boots along with somber colors and looser fitting tops on the runway during Dior Homme Fall/Winter 07/08.

[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27080/session_05.html

Part 1&2: Hip Hop

Hip Hop:
“Appearing in low-income urban areas in the 80s, hip hop portrayed the disfranchisement and distrust of the status quo. Color or thematic matching of formal, military, and sport garments showed the ingenuity of less affluent but style-conscious youngsters.” [1]

The first image is of the 80's rap duo Salt 'N' Pepa circa 1987 sporting color matching and sports garments. The second two images are from DSquared2'S Spring/Summer 2009 Menswear Hip Hop collection showcasing thematic colors, sports garments and overall ingenuity.

[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27080/session_05.html

Assignment 10.1 - 11.1: Historical and Artistic Styles

In art, the formula to create a surreal composition was to place unrelated objects, or symbols, in the same visual context and let the subconscious mind of the viewer develop a meaning. In fashion, Surrealism was about creating bizarre pairings of materials and objects in a garment or outfit, much like Manish Arora did with this circus themed garment pictured above.

The garment above is by Paul Poiret, who created the most representative designs of the Art Nouveau era. By "synthesizing Greek, Egyptian, Japanese and Islamic art, Poiret created one-of-a-kind outfits." [1] The style of this time "was characterized by flowing lines and favored circles and curves, as opposed to the straight, clean lines representative of modern life. Fashions from the early 20th century took inspiration from Japanese prints, Middle Eastern motifs, and Celtic art, just like other decorative arts of the era did. Fashion designers translated these curvilinear Art Nouveau compositions into flowing draperies and often used textiles with exotic motifs and color combinations." [1]
During the Neoclassical period, after the French Revolution in 1789, Greek-Roman influences re-appeared in art - and fashion. High waistlines (empire waist) became fashionable on dresses made out of layers of sheer fabric arranged in draperies, imitating ancient Greek and Roman costumes. The above image from Derek Lam's Spring 2006 RTW collection perfectly depicts these Neoclassical history art influences.
Extravagant silhouettes, contrasting colors and patterns, and voluminous accessories were adopted during the Baroque period's costumes. There were variations in style throughout the 17th century, however each used "at least one overgrown element to destabilize the natural figure: high waistlines, huge falling collars and cuffs, or skirt-wide breeches." [1]
The high waistline, huge falling collar, contrasting black and white colors and overall voluminous silhouette in the above Christian Dior garment from the Spring 2009 Couture collection exemplifies these Baroque historical art elements.

This garment was part of Christian Dior's Fall 2006 Couture collection, and showcases Byzantine inspired historical art styles. Byzantine costumes focused on ornamentation as the most important component, as the pixilated quality of mosaics that decorated churches and palaces were the most striking characteristic of Byzantine art. Jewels were attached to everything: shoes, belts, hats - becoming an integral part of the garment, just as the elaborately decorated dress and headpiece above illustrate.

This garment, by Jean Paul Gaultier from his Fall 2009 Couture collection, is perhaps influenced by the Gothic historical art style. Architecture was the most representative form of art during the Gothic era and silhouettes of this time mimicked the spires and arches of towers by the adoption of tall conical hats, represented in the draped veil worn above. The figure-hugging dress and draped veil are also representative of the translation of hard stone and fragile glass of cathedrals which were contrasted by tight-fitting and draped sections of garments.
Similarly, velvety textiles in dark tones translated the opacity of the tinted glass of stained-glass windows, like the velvet dress seen above.

[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27078/session_04.html
[2] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/

Assignment 8.1: Geneology of a Garment: Corsets

The corset is a cinching garment that encases the middle torso to either push up or flatten the breasts, or to hug the waist into shape, or both. It is a fashion mainstay that has been in use in one form or another for thousands of years. Its roots can even be traced to drawings discovered at the Neolithic archaeological site at Brandon in Norfolk, England. The drawings found depict women wearing bodices made from animal hides that are laced down the front.

Around 1700 BC, Minoans used corsets that were fitted and laced, or a smaller corselette that left the breasts exposed as depicted in Figure 1.

Women in other ancient civilizations such as Crete, Egypt, Rome and Assyria also wore variations of a corset. Women in Egypt wore a band under their bust as part of their outward costume as depicted in Figure 2. Where as Roman slaves wore corseted tight lacing as a form of subjugation to their loosely draped masters and mistresses.

During the 13th and 14th centuries, free flowing dresses were replaced by dresses that utilized lacing to shape the garments closer to the body. A trim silhouette was achieved by the use of stiffer fabrics while a corseted effect was incorporated into the garments as opposed to being a separate article of clothing. These gowns were known as kirtles as depicted in Figure 3.

The 16th century costume was upheld as a symbol of position, rank, and wealth. The corset played a large part in displaying a person's position. In the French court, under the influence of Italian-born Catherine de Medici, ladies in waiting were instructed to cinch their waists to a size no bigger than thirteen inches around.
It was also in the French court that a steel framework corset was introduced. Usually made up of four plates with perforation ornamental designs, they were connected at the sides and front while leaving the back open to get in and out of.
Images include Figure 7 of a steel corset and below it the "effigy corset" of Queen Elizabeth I.

During the 17th century boned inner-bodices were built into most gowns and made with matching detachable sleeves. Most had a separate boned center front panel called a stomacher with a tabbed edge at the bottom to allow the hips to flare out in a smooth transition preventing the bones from ending abruptly at the waist.

The 19th century brought about some major changes in corsetry. During the Napoleonic Wars, a doctor with the French army invented a metallic eyelet. Eyelets added to corsets allowed them to be cinched even tighter without fear of damaging the fabric. Steam-molding, introduced in the 1860s, also helped create a curvaceous contour as depicted in the final image of a woman with a very narrow waist.

[1] http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://4.bp.blogspot.com/
[2] http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://laracorsets.com/images/Corset_History_Images

Military Influence in Fashion: Part 1: Baroque

The lower image is of a Pikeman and drummer in the French Guards, 1633, from Abraham Bosse [1]

And the upper image is of Louis XIII knighting the Chevalier du Saint-Esprit, 1634
[1]

"During the Renaissance, the chevalier, an updated version of the knight, appeared. Chevaliers were usually young, middle- and upper-class men who, having no money, pursued professional military careers. These chevaliers were highly educated and represented this through the lavishness of their uniforms and elaborate manners. Helmets and breastplates were worn over padded jackets for battle or special occasions only. The rest of the time, a chevalier wore brightly-colored doublets, feathered hats, knee-high boots and -- starting during the 17th century -- elaborate wigs.

"As a result of the influence of chevaliers during the 16th, 17th, and most of the 18th centuries, men’s garments were often more colorful, elaborate, and extravagant than women’s. The chevaliers’ styles were admired by the ladies and imitated by the bourgeoisie. In many ways, the chevaliers were dangerous peacocks." [2]

The Baroque period of the 17th century contained the elaborate costumes exemplified in the image of Louis XIII as well as the uniform of a chevaliers in the lower image.

[1] http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.costumes.org/history/quicherat

[2] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27076/session_06.html

Military Influence in Fashion: Part 1: Renaissance

The two images at the top are recreations of Roman military gear. The two lower images are relevant to Renaissance military uniforms dating to the 14th and 15th Centuries. [2]

The lower right image depicts a night and his horse in full plated armor that allowed for more movement than that of armor from the Middle Ages. "In terms of military history, the Renaissance was a transitional era. Firearms were gradually introduced, and swords were now designed to pinch (instead of cut), making agility more important than force in combat. Protection now consisted of a combination of padded and plated armor that was thinner than before." [1]

The lower left image depicts a breast and back-plate morion as well as an open style helmet which was more convenient when the soldier took aim. [2] "Also during the Renaissance, the chevalier, an updated version of the knight, appeared. Chevaliers were usually young, middle- and upper-class men who, having no money, pursued professional military careers. These chevaliers were highly educated and represented this through the lavishness of their uniforms and elaborate manners. Helmets and breastplates were worn over padded jackets for battle or special occasions only." [1]

[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27076/session_06.html
[2] http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://content.answers.com/main/content